|
Just because you're on a limited budget, doesn't mean you
have to build a Cortina based rod. Many of the hot rods of the 1940s and
1950s used unusual solutions and parts. Here are some suggestions to help
you build an authentic looking but affordable hot rod.
 | A complete Ford running chassis from 1928-1948 |
If you're going to build a traditional hot rod you're
going to need an early frame and countless original V8 parts from 1932 to
1948. Anyone who has done this will tell you how these parts add up.
Before long you've spend £8000 on a pile of parts. Many American and even
some British Streetrodders take a perfectly good, often restored vintage
1928-48 Ford and drop the steel body on a fresh frame with an entirely new drive train.
The original drivable Ford chassis is then sold off and can often be
bought for a fair price.
|
Use a Non-Ford frame |
Especially in the 30ies and 40ies many rodders used non-Ford frames as a basis for their hot rods. Model-A frames were weak in
comparison to Essex or Willys frames. Eddy Iskendarin's Model-T for
instance is based on an Essex frame. It doesn't matter whether you find an
Essex, Willys, Whippet or Chevrolet frame they're all ideal for an
authentic traditional rod. These non-Ford frames are much cheaper than
Ford frames, are often much stronger and can still be found in the
UK
|
A Toyota Lux or Volkswagen Taro 2WD pickup frame |
The Toyota Lux/Hilux and VW Taro are essentially the same
vehicle. The 2WD versions were assemble in Hanover, Germany. Although
difficult to find, these light trucks are worth holding out for. Their
slim light weigh, but tough frame lends it's self well to slipping under a
1930s body. You save a lot of registration worries too. Using the complete
rolling Taro/Lux chassis makes your SVA a simpler task. The wheel
bolt pattern is also the standard "Ford" pattern!
| The Carbodies FX4 London Taxi. Based on the 1948
FX3 chassis design these extremely sturdy 110.5" chassis have
drum brakes all round |
The Austin London Taxi was introduced in 1958 but the
chassis was largely identical to the 1948-58 Austin FX3. Carbodies
continued production until well into the 90ies but the one you need is the
one with drum brakes all round, built until 1992-3. It's easily
identifiable by it's 1940 Ford style wheels with nice chrome hubcaps. The
later disc braked versions have bulging plastic hupcaps which look like
Ford Transit wheels and aren't really suitable. The London Taxis are
mostly fitted with a 2.7 litre Nissan turbodiesel and automatic
transmission. The entire driving chassis can be slipped under a Rodline
Willys coupe body for a quick and cheap build. This concept will also be
ideal for our up and coming 1940 Ford coupe. Stick with the Nissan diesel
for an economical daily driver or swap in the V8 of your choice for a
stomping great hot rod. The taxi also donates plenty of flat glass, window
rubbers, door hinges and latches and so forth.
| A complete drivable British chassis, already
boxed and including a full set of hydraulic brakes for just a couple
of hundred pounds! |
Sounds like a story out of fifties America but it's true.
However instead of looking for Fords we'll have to turn to Rover. The
Rover P4 from 1949 up until 1964 is a quality car using many beautifully
made components. The P4 is built like a thirties American car which makes
it an ideal basis for a budget rod. In total over 100.000 were made and
they're still easy to find these days. Rover P4s are scrapped every
day and often end up banger racing because their bodies rust out. A rusty
but solid P4 can be bought for a couple of hundred pounds. Due to it's
substantial size, the Rover P4 chassis is best suited to the 1934 or 1937
bodies. All models except the 60 and 80 have 6 cylinder engines and could
be run as they are. A Rover V8 engine will also fit in the frame with a
bit of work. The 5 stud steel wheels look similar to the popular 1940
wheels and all models from 1957 upwards have front disc brakes.
The Riley RM is also a suitable rolling chassis but is
rarer and probably more expensive.
|
